Breaking away from the traditional Fashion Week calendar, Christian Siriano staged his spring 2023 show at Elizabeth Taylor’s former townhouse in New York City on Wednesday, Sept. 7. With a star-studded crowd sitting front row — including Janet Jackson and longtime friend Coca Rocha — the catwalk opened with a classic black, single-breasted suit completed with a voluminous taffeta sash framing the shoulders. What followed can be described as a series of high-octane ensembles, most of them suitable for a white-tie party.
Building on his fall 2022 collection, Siriano continued to explore postpandemic evening dressing, expanding on the glamour his clientele have been longing for. The “Project Runway” host remained committed to themes of opulence and drama, presenting looks inspired by stylish women of the past, including Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Katharine Hepburn, Bianca Jagger, Judy Garland, Ava Gardner, and, of course, Taylor.
“I love the idea of bringing beauty back into our lives with a collection of strongly tailored suits, couture-like elements, and feminine evening gowns in interesting shapes and silhouettes,” Siriano said in an official statement.
Sartorial elements from recent Schiaparelli, Iris van Herpen, and Valentino catwalks were given the Siriano twist, most visibly in a black blazer with wide white lapels, buttons, and hems recalling Daniel Roseberry’s signature tailoring; a trio of draped dresses boasting threadlike finishes likely influenced by Herpen’s fall 2022 couture collection; and a mock-neck ruffle minidress in the Valentino PP Pink.
Elsewhere, a parade of ballgowns — many of them incorporating Victorian details such as mutton sleeves, voluminous bustles, and a dropped waist — played to nostalgia. Meanwhile, whimsical tulle dresses took things to dramatic heights.
Ahead, see what Jackson and Rocha wore in the front row, and check out some key looks from the collection.